Eyebrows frame the face. This is why the shape and appearance of your eyebrows is so essential to how you look. Even a minor adjustment to eyebrows can cause a major change in your appearance. So lets start with the basics.

Eyebrows 101

The safe rule for any eyebrow to look good is to start the eyebrow at the corner of the eye (Diagram A), place the arch at the side of the iris (Diagram B), and end the brow at the corner of the eye (Diagram C). The goal is to get an eye’s width between the two eyes, and to have nothing hanging over the outer edge of the eye. For those who love numbers, from point A to B=60% of the total length. From point B-C=40% of the total length. This is the way a normal eyebrow will look most flattering on most people.

Of course there are always exceptions. Some people have wide set eyes or close set eyes. Some eyes droop, or some brows are very heavy and strong. In all these cases the above brow will look good, but there are other tricks that a good brow designer will use to frame the face better. Quite frankly, these cases are why most people entrust their brows to someone like me.

As many of my devoted eyebrow fans know I have a very unique philosophy on eyebrows. Not everyone will agree with me, but those who don’t I send to someone else who can make them happy. For me eyebrows are one of the most important features of the face, and to make them look their best I think you have to follow a few simple rules.

Eyebrows are sisters not twins.

Your face isn’t perfectly symmetrical, so why would you want your eyebrows to be perfectly symmetrical? Your eyebrows should, like sisters, look very similar to one another, but they aren’t supposed to be mirror images of each other. By trying to make them mirror images you are just exaggerating your features’ asymmetrical flaws.

You are not J-Lo a.k.a. Stick with your natural shape

People laugh when I say this, but the number one thing I hear from a new client is “Here’s a picture of the eyebrows I want”. And invariably the picture is of J-Lo! I am not kidding. I couldn’t make this up if I tried. I sometimes wonder if Jennifer Lopez knows her eyebrows are in such high demand…

Your face has it’s own shape, and your brow bones have their own natural structure. If you don’t look like J-Lo I can guarantee that even if I could get your brows the exact shape as hers, they still wouldn’t look that way on you. Bone structure, features, face shape, and eyebrow hair growth all factor into your own, ideal, natural brow shape. I know there are places out there that tell you to pick a template and then shape your brows to it, but those brows always look unnatural and separate from the features of the people wearing them. It’s like trying to make an Andy Warhol painting look good in the same frame as a Raphael painting. The two artist just aren’t the same and therefore they each need a different look.

Train Don’t Trim

You’ve seen these around, heck this might be you! There are many people who feel that eyebrows need to be trimmed super close to the face. They feel that if they have any length to the hair it will go wild and get out of place. BAH! Trimming here and there is necessary especially if you have curly or bone straight brows. But over trimming brows not only makes them look messy as they grow in, but can leave gaping holes, and thin spot in the brows. This is why I teach my clients to train their eyebrows!

Eyebrows are just hair. They can be trained just like the hair on your head. It takes about 3 month of persistence, but it works. Ask any one of my clients. They can each tell you that training takes time, but is worth it. Not only does training your brows keep your brow shape longer, it makes it appear more natural, and can even fix problems you have with your brow shape.

Let them grow!

Most people have a tendency to over pluck. They get into the mindset that just one more hair will make the sides perfect images of each other (please remember my 1st rule!). This leads to people taking off too much hair. Also people don’t know how to create a good brow shape so they just blindly tweeze away. Too thin brows can’t frame the face. I am not saying you need Brooke Sheilds size brows, but quite frankly those look better on most people than pencil thin!

Creating good brows is often a time consuming and annoying process. Often you have to walk around for a couple of months with eyebrows that don’t look their best as you grow hair back in. You have to learn to love the new “look” you have, even if it’s totally different from what you’ve been wearing for the past 10 years. I don’t know how many times someone has left me worried that they look “like a freak” because we took out 5 hairs on each side of the inner brow. “It looks so big!” they always say. I tell them to try it out until the next wax and see what people say. “Give yourself time to get used to it. It’s not any different than getting a new haircut. You need time.” Is what I always reply. 9 out of 10 times the person is happy in 2 weeks when I see them again. If they aren’t, guess what, those 10 hairs will grow back if you just don’t touch them!

Everyone has hair, to some degree, in places we don’t really talk about. Nose hair, ear hair, butt hair, toe hair, leg hair, and genital hair. It’s all hair! We all know about the hair on our heads. You wash it, you get it styled, colored, trimmed, etc.… But what is it about genital grooming that is this huge taboo and mystery? I blame all the drama and misinformation on our parents for not taking us aside and telling us what to do with the hair “down there”.

There are a few different ways you can take care of unwanted hair “down there” or anywhere. You can shave, trim, yank, laser, electrolysis, or use a depilatory. Each has their pros and cons. Ultimately you must choose the best way for yourself.

Shaving

The least painful in the short term, but has many side effects that are quite painful in the long run like in-grown hairs, razor burn and lumps, and uncomfortable grow in. You also have to do it about every day. If you do decide that the razor is the best option for you, be sure to exfoliate (scrub) the area first, then use a really thick shaving cream or gel, and a clean, sharp razor. Afterwards be sure to apply a soothing lotion.

Yanking

Tweezing, hair removal devices like the “Epilady”, threading, and waxing fall into this category. By far my favorite method besides laser hair removal, yanking is excellent if done properly and consistently. Yes, any form of yanking hurts at first, but this method damages the hair, so as the hair gets thinner and weaker it gets less painful. Proper care like scrubbing every day and using a post-waxing lotion will make it easier and less painful too.

Depilatories (think Nair)

These are the worst things you can use. They are chemicals that eat away at the hair on the surface of the skin and work just like shaving does except without the razor. The chemicals may eat away the hair with little effort, but they are hard on the skin and very toxic – especially on delicate pubic areas.

Laser

Popular, nearly painless, and expensive. Your results depend on the quality of the lasers used and the skill of the technician preforming the treatment. A laser hones in on the pigment in the hair. This is why the best candidates are fair skinned people with dark hair. If you have darker skin the laser will also hone in on the pigment in your skin and may give you discolored spots. Most times they go away, but you will look a little strange. If you have blonde hair or very light hair you may not be able to use this method since you don’t have enough pigment for the laser to zap. Session prices vary, but you can be sure you will need 5-9 sessions. My recommendation is to do 6 months of waxing and then get laser done. Laser, like waxing, needs to catch the hair in the active growth stage to kill the hair (see waxing myths below for more details on this). Since you train your hair to be all on the same growth pattern when waxing, you will zap most of the hair in less sessions. This can save you a ton of money.

Electrolysis

This method is being replaced by the less painful laser method, but if you have fair hair or your skin is really dark this might be a better option. Basically electrolysis uses an electrical needle to go into each hair follicle and zap it. It’s time consuming and pretty uncomfortable. Multiple sessions are needed since the technician has to do each hair individually.

Trimming

This is often used in combination to any of the above methods of hair removal, but it can be used on it’s own. Essentially you want to use a nice, sharp, pair of scissors and trim the hair you don’t want.

Even with laser hair removal taking over, the most common form of hair removal down there is still waxing. And since I am a very skilled waxer this is what I am going to spend the rest of this article talking about.

Okay let’s start with debunking the basic myths about unwanted hair.

If I shave or wax my hair will get thicker.

FALSE! The hair may appear to get thicker or coarser because it’s now being blunted at the top of the skin as the razor chops it off. This is what makes it itchy and prickly as it grows in.

When you wax the hair is pulled out by the root. This damages the root so when the hair grows in it’s not only soft because it is growing back naturally, but over time the damage makes the hair finer, and sometimes stops it from growing back forever.

If I wax my hair will start growing more.

FALSE! If this were true we wouldn’t have bald men. All they would have to do is shave or wax their balding spots to grow more hair.

When you wax you are training all your hair to grow at the same time. Your hair grows in three phases, Anagen (active growth), Catagen (non growth phase), and Talagen (resting phase). This is why you aren’t bald one week a month. If all your hair grew at once and fell out at the same time we would have bald phases! This is bad for hair on our head, but good for places we don’t want hair. A good waxer will make sure you are on a 3-4 week wax schedule. This will ensure that all your hair moves onto the same phase of growth at the same time; forcing a bald phase. This means smooth skin for about 3 weeks and then ALL your hair will grow in at the same time. This makes it appear like you have more hair during the growth phase, but trust me you don’t. It’s just all on the same phase and growing in all at the same time.

Once I start waxing I will be perfectly smooth.

False! Above I spoke about the 3 phases of hair growth. Due to those phases it takes about 5 totally consistent waxes to get a perfectly smooth wax without any unwanted growth between wax sessions. So waxing before a cruise may not get you the results you want for the entire week. I can grab the hair that is showing, but I can’t get the hair that is just under the skin, too short, or hasn’t started to grow yet.

Waxing is great for special occasions.

False! The thing is, waxing is not a once in a while thing. If you are only waxing for a special occasion you are doing yourself an disservice. When you wax regularly the process gets easier and less painful. The first time will probably leave you red and a bit sensitive. Sporadic waxing doesn’t give a very good result either. You will get in between growth and may not be smooth for that special event. If you have a big event like a cruise or a wedding it’s smart to start waxing 6 months in advance.

All wax is the same.

FALSE! There are numerous waxes on the market as well as “sugar” waxes. In my opinion, and the opinion of many of the best waxers out there, a hard Brazilian wax is the best wax for the pubic area. Hard wax doesn’t stick to the skin so you don’t get as irritated, and that also means it isn’t sticky so it won’t stick vital parts of your anatomy to one another either! It takes a little longer sometimes since you have to wait for the wax to harden, but most people who have had this wax used on them agree it’s time well spent.

Now that we have that out of the way let’s talk about names. An excellent waxer will guide you to a shape that matches your needs and flatters your body shape. Just as hair has different styles to flatter, so does your pubic hair. But knowing the basic type of wax shape you are looking for is important. So here is a good guideline.

Full Brazilian or Playboy:

Everything gone from the front of the genitals and between the butt cheeks.

Traditional Brazilian:

A small strip of hair or “landing strip” on the labia’s that extends onto the mons a bit. Everything else gone from the genitals and between the butt cheeks.

Traditional Bikini:

If it sticks out of your underwear and is on the pubic area then I take it off. This doesn’t include inner thigh, belly’s, butts, or other body parts.

Bikini Plus:

Little to no hair left on the labia, but hair (usually a triangle) on the mons.

Thighs:

If you have hair on your thighs this is an add on.

Happy trails:

That trail of hair from your pubis to your belly button.

Having an excellent waxer is only half the battle. Taking care of your wax in between wax sessions and consistently seeing your waxer every 3-4 weeks is equally important. Here are some tips to keeping you and your waxer happy.

Consistency, consistency, consistency! Book ahead and book on the third week. I always do this because once the appointment exists it’s real in your mind. Also the 3rd week gives you the chance to move the appointment to the next week due to menstrual cycles and scheduling conflicts. Don’t pass the 4th week or you will throw off your growth pattern!

Exfoliation a.k.a. scrubbing. You can’t be a sissy or a slacker about this. You need something stronger than your average store bought loofah or puff sponge. I recommend the Cactus Cloth by Bioelements since it’s strong, sanitary, and will last a long time. And you need to be sure you use it every day in the shower. This will keep your in grown hairs in check and lead to a super smooth wax.

Post Wax Creams. I love In-Grow Gold and Epicuren’s Propolis Lotion. Both help reduce redness and inflammation while keeping the skin soft and hydrated. In Grow Gold is the best pick if you battle in grown hairs.

So there you have it. All of the things your mother should have told you, but didn’t about taking care of the hair “down there”. I am sure there are a million other things I could talk about in regards to grooming “down there”, but these are the most important ones. If you have any additional questions please add a comment or drop me an email and I will be sure to answer them!