It’s hard to believe that summer is almost here…especially with all the rain we are getting in Los Angeles right now, but trust me, beach days are just around the corner and it’s time that we once again visit our love hate relationship with the sun.

The sun is BAD. I know. I hate saying it, but it just is…well I guess the sun isn’t bad, it’s the UV rays that the sun puts out that are bad. We all know this. And yet we love to be tan. We love to bake. We love the heat and rays…even if those rays make us old, ugly, and wrinkled later in life. There is NO safe tan. None. Nada. Zip. The only safe thing out there is a fake tan, so let’s talk about how to get a good one.

All fake tans are made from the same FDA approved chemical DHA. It’s the delivery system of that chemical and application that separates a good looking tan from an obvious fake tan. Luckily fake tan technology has come a long way from those original orange streaking days.

Scrub

Because you are trying to get the chemical evenly into the skin and make this tan last as long as possible exfoliating the dead skin off is the first step to a good fake tan. Depending on the tanning product (read the packaging) you should exfoliate the skin, up to 24 hours before. I think the Cactus Cloth by Bioelements is the best with a shower gel. Stay away from a soap since this can leave a residue on the skin and impedes the color from even distribution.

Moisturize

Now that you’ve scrubbed all that dead skin away be sure to hydrate it. A streaky fake tan often comes from the chemical being sucked up more in some places than other. So slather on the moisturizer and be sure you have extra on the knees, elbows, and ankles! Be generous and let it soak in completely before moving on to the next stage.

Naked in a Safe Place

Fake tans stain before they dry, so if you’re alone and can do it naked you’ll get the best tan. Otherwise, wear old panties you don’t mind streaking with tan, or an old bikini. Stand somewhere where you won’t be leaning on fabrics (so not your bedroom!) and give yourself time to dry off before you put on clothes. Different tanners take different amounts of time to soak in, but for most, allow 5 – 10 minutes at least. I always leave about 30 minutes to be on the safe side.

Tools

Self tanning mitts exist to help people get nice fake tans. They are a spongy mitt that soaks up the tanning cream and smooths it onto the skin evenly. People love them and swear that it really makes a difference to the finished result. But if that seems a little to high tech for you, be sure to at least wear latex or vinyl gloves so you don’t get the self tanner all over your hands and nails.

Time is of the Essence

Now it’s time to actually apply the stuff and once you start applying you need to do it fast. Rub it into small portions of your skin at a time and be sure it’s really rubbed in before moving to the next spot. For an easy application the best formulas are either an expensive cream with an anti-streak ingredient and tint so you can see it going on like Fake Bake or Guinot (my all time favorite), or a light formula like a mousse which spreads easily. Spray-on products tend to be the worst for streaking so I don’t recommend them. Work sparingly with the product. Expect to build the tan. A dark tan all at once has more chance to give you a nasty fake tan. But if you apply one layer and then another and then another you will have a wonderful even tan.

Avoid putting tan directly onto dry places like elbows, ankles, and knees. I like to mix the tanner with equal parts of a light moisturizer. This way that area is lighter in color. A good fake tan looks like a real one! Elbows and knees tend to take in the color deeply so if you make the color a little lighter it will look more even. Be sure to feather (apply less and make it thinner) the color under the arms, armpits, and down the hands, fingers, and toes. Keep the tan off the palms of your hand and don’t let it gather between the fingers.

Fixes

If you do find you have a streak or a patch that’s too dark, there are a number of things you can do. If it won’t budge try using an oil-based cleanser or a fake tan remover. If you’re really having trouble, try nail polish remover or go get that area waxed.

Keeping It

A fake tan stays only as long as the dyed skin so don’t exfoliate heavily, over wash, or wax a newly tanned area. Keep it well hydrated, and be sure to use an SPF! Fake tan doesn’t stop sun damage!

New Lotions

There are a lot of new tanning lotions on the market. Jergens is my favorite so far. You want to treat these lotions just like a fake tanner! They are more hydrating and build a very nice gradual tan, but they can still streak and leave dark patches. I like them a lot though!

You all may remember in my article Sunsense that I spoke about a sunscreen additive called Mexoryl XL that isn’t legal in the US. It blocks UVA rays which is something no other sunscreen really does since they break down in the light. Luckily Neutrogena just released sunscreen in the US which contains Helioplex. According to Neutrogena Helioplex does exactly what Mexoryl does but has FDA approval in the US. So be sure you start looking for this in your summer sunscreen.

Up next….an article on self tanning & the new sun damage studies!

When you think about me and what I do you mostly think of facials and maybe waxing. What you may not think about is that I specialize in repairing and maintaining your skin – all of it. Look down at your arms. Notice your hands. Feel your back. Interestingly enough you have skin all over! So why aren’t you taking care of it?

There are many different kinds of skin on your body. Sure they all share the same name and many of the same features, but each section is unique. The skin on your face and neck are thinner and finer than the skin on your arms and legs. The skin of your palms and soles of your feet do not produce oil and therefore can callus easier to protect themselves. Just because your face is oily doesn’t mean your body is too.

To take proper care of all your skin you will want to give each section its very own assessment. Section your skin into 5 zones.

Zone 1: Face, neck, chest, and ears
Zone 2: Front of body, butt, and limbs
Zone 3: Feet and hands
Zone 4: Scalp
Zone 5: Back

Look at zoned sections of your skin. For places, like your back, that you can’t see, try to feel it. Notice if you seem dry and flaky, or if there are areas that are broken out and oily. Do you have sections that are ashy in color? What about calluses or rough patches? Make sure you pay close attention to your elbows and knees! Can you see how each section has its own personality? Maybe your hands are very dry, but your back is oily. Or maybe you have rough elbows, but your feet are soft and supple. Each zone is different and, like the face, will often change with weather, stress, and hormones.

Okay now that you’ve had a chance to notice your skin – all of it – lets learn about taking care of it. Care of the skin is actually very simple and generally the same for every zone. Cleanse, exfoliate, and hydrate. But just like the skin on your face each area needs it’s own routine.

Zone 1: Face, Neck, Chest, and Ears

Since zone 1 contains the face this is obviously the most complicated area to take care of – hence the reason you see someone like me! But take a moment to think about your neck, chest, and ears. Do you extend your daily face care to those areas? If you do, excellent! If you don’t, well let’s start. By adding just a little extra product to your application you will be able to exfoliate, moisturize, and SPF those areas along with your face. That way your neck, chest, and ears will stay just as young and healthy as your face.

Zone 2: Front of Body, Butt, & Limbs

The skin on your body needs help shedding, hydrating, and detoxifying just like the skin on your face does. There are a ton of different ways to accomplish this task, but this is what I recommend. Find a body wash gel or a bar soap that is mild and, if possible, pH balanced for the body. My favorite is Kiss My Face Olive Oil bar soap. It’s PH balanced for my most delicate areas, but is still strong enough to make me feel clean. At least 3x a week exfoliate with either an exfoliating body scrub, a manual scrubber, or my favorite way, body brushing (get a natural bristled brush or use a Bioelements Cactus Cloth dry. Before you bathe, stand in the shower and brush in light, vigorous, strokes from the outside of your body in. Start at the fingers and swipe in towards your heart, from toes to your groin, from your chest to your heart, etc. This brushing not only sheds dead skin, but helps you detox by promoting lymphatic drainage and stimulating oxygen supply to the surface of your skin.) When choosing a scrub, use something that has surgically rounded particles. They don’t tear the skin. If you are using a loofah or sponge be sure it’s very scrubby and don’t let it get moldy! Finally, use a body lotion daily either as soon as you get out of the shower since all your heated skin will suck in the product better, or right before bed so that while you sleep the heat of your body helps the product penetrate. Don’t use anything too heavy. I know we often think we are very dry so we need something thick, but if you exfoliate and use a light lotion on a daily basis you won’t need those heavy, often clogging, creams. Save those for spot treating only on places like elbows, knees, hands, and feet. Think about getting body treatments. Body treatments not only feel amazing, but are a facial for your whole body! Imagine that, happy, healthy skin all over!

Zone 3: Feet and Hands

This zone is a difficult one. The skin on our hands and feet is designed to try and protect us. Hot water, soap, shoes rubbing, walking barefoot, etc. All of these factor into how the skin reacts. The best way to manage this zone is like any other, regular maintenance! A manicure and pedicure once a month is great, but what about the time in between? On a daily basis use an exfoliant on both the hands and feet. For the hands you can use your body exfoliant, but for the feet get a pumice stone or specialty foot scrub. You don’t need to get every callus off. You probably need a few of them since they were created to protect you! Besides, daily care will help whittle them away and keep them thin and manageable. Once this is done be sure to use a thicker cream or oil. My favorite for feet is just organic virgin coconut oil, or shea butter. If either area gets really bad slather the cream on at night and put socks or gloves on and go to sleep. You’ll wake up to much softer skin. Be sure to put spf on your hands and if you are wearing open shoes, your toes too! You can also get hand and foot treatments added to almost any spa and salon service these days. This type of service can really boost the health of the skin in this zone.

Zone 4: Scalp

I am not a hairdresser or scalp specialist, but I did want to touch on it since it’s skin. Use a good shampoo that doesn’t build up. My personal favorites are the Giovanni line sold at most “Whole Foods” type stores and Epicuren’s Propolis shampoo. Both are great for controlling dandruff, stopping buildup, keeping your color true, and making your scalp and hair shaft very, very happy. Once a month be sure to give your scalp some TLC with a scalp treatment. Your hairdresser or esthetician can do this for you, or you can find some good essential oils and hair masks and give one to yourself.

Zone 5: Back

The back is a tricky area because we can’t see it ourselves and in some people it reacts very much like the face. If you don’t have problems with acne in that area treat it as you would zone 2. If you do, then see a skin care specialist for back facials and a special skin care routine.

Your skin covers your entire body and taking care of it makes you feel good all over. Once you start treating all your skin as well as you do the skin on your face you will see many positive changes in your appearance. It takes a little more time, but it’s time well spent.

I hate tea. I lived in Britain for 2 years and visit almost every year and still I hate tea. I know how good green tea is for people. I like it flavoring my ice cream. I adore using it in my facials, but I just don’t like how it tastes in the cup. So imagine my surprise when I found a tea that I not only love to drink, but that trumps green tea in the health and wellness department!

Rooibos (roy-boss), also known as Honeybush or Red Tea isn’t really “tea” at all. It comes from a reddish bush in South Africa and although the leaves are processed like tea, Rooibos comes from the plant Aspalathus Linearis and not the Camellia plants which produce traditional teas. Like traditional teas Rooibos leaves are brewed to give a refreshing flavor, but with a fruity, nutty, sweet, and totally non-bitter taste.

Scientists have been studying the medicinal properties since the early 1900’s when a Russian immigrant named Benjamin Ginsberg discovered Rooibos for Europeans, but our studies are just proving what South Africans have know for centuries. Rooibos tea not only tastes amazing, but eases headaches, digestive problems, allergy symptoms and colic. According to studies conducted in South Africa and Japan Rooibos aids in health problems such as insomnia, irritability, headaches, nervous tension, and hypertension. When used directly on the skin it reduces inflammation and irritation caused by things like insect bites, eczema, psoriasis, and other rashes.

Preliminary findings indicate rooibos tea contains more polyphenols than green tea. At least eight different polyphenols have been identified in Rooibos, and since rooibos is entirely caffeine free the antioxidant and healing power of this tea can be used to help slow the aging process and boost the immune system in anyone at any age. A good Rooibos tea contains no colors, additives or preservatives. It’s naturally sweet so you don’t need to add additional sweeteners, and even people who don’t like tea love the taste!

Rooibos contains almost no oxalic acid, making it a good beverage for people prone to kidney stones, and contains the following minerals: copper, iron and potassium, calcium, fluoride, zinc, manganese, alpha-hydroxy, and magnesium. Like green tea it helps freshen breath, keep your teeth and gums healthy, and keep you younger looking.

As with any tea, the quality of the leaf matters. I get mine from one of the top supplier of Rooibos tea in the world. They know tea, and if you’ve seen me and had a Tea Infusion Facial you can attest to how wonderful the tea tastes and smells, but also how beautiful it leaves your skin. So from now on think red when you think about drinking tea. Even if you, like me, didn’t think you were a tea drinker give a cup of Rooibos a shot.

Well it’s March and that means it’s time to move away from your Fall and Winter skin care routine. Luckily, Spring is the easiest season on your skin. Spring showers wash away pollution in the air, those horribly drying heaters get shut off, and humidity enters the picture once more. For Spring the overall skin care answer is lighter, brighter, and winter repair.

Lighter. Put aside the heavy creams and dark makeup. Spring is a season for rebirth and growth. During the winter you are battling harsh, dry climates like wind, cold, and electric heat. With the coming of the rains the air is fresher and cleaner, and much needed humidity comes back. With more moisture you need lighter creams and lotions. Many of the winter creams are heavy so they can protect the skin from water loss and create a barrier between your skin and the elements. The Spring means more water, nicer weather, and therefore the need for less.

Brighter. During the Winter months there is less sun and people stay inside more. This is when you should be on a deeper skin care regiment that includes more acid and peels. With the Spring, and more sun, you stop this but the results shine through. Your skin should be be brighter, fresher, younger looking. Sunscreen, always a must, is even more important now so you can maintain this new skin. Buy a sun hat you love and where it whenever you’re outside. Remember to put some of that sunscreen on the back of your hands as well!

Winter Repair. No matter how good we are to the skin in the Winter, some damage in the form of chapping, scaling, cracking, or dullness will be evident. Give your skin its very own Spring cleaning. There are lots of ways to do it. Spend the extra time scrubbing your body from head to foot and then slather it with a water binding lotion. Get a manicure and pedicure. Try a body treatment for the first time. If you only see an esthetician once a month, see them two times a month so you can get a good clean with the first visit and then get a rejuvenating facial for the second one. Spring is the best time for skin. Take the time and use this season well.

I’m moving all my old client records into a new computer system I’m trying out. As I plow through the records and type the info into the proper fields its become very clear that the clients who have seen the best results are those who are dedicated to the task. They are the ones who see me like clock work, do every step every day regardless of how silly it sounds or how tired they are, and trust me to do my job. They don’t come to me and tell me what to do. They don’t complain that they don’t see results while confessing that they just can’t do fill in the blank every day. And most of all, they allow for the amount of time the process takes.

Skin Fitness is not a quick fix and what I do isn’t a miracle – no matter what my clients may say. I can’t even count how often someone has thanked me for the work I have done and all I’ve been able to do is thank them right back. I work hard for my clients. I train, I stay up on the latest research, and I listen to what they and their skin tells me. But ultimately the results are as good as the effort they put in. They are working hard. They are staying focused. They are dedicated to the task. Without them I am just and esthetician fighting to minimize damage during every facial with no time to correct problems. Without their hard work I’m nothing.

One of my clients once explained to me that dedication like I require is an art. He said, “It’s like when I plan an exhibition. You see what needs to be installed and changed. You see what needs to be hung where. You know the goal and then have to dedicate yourself to the task of getting it all done in time in the most perfect way you can. And damn does it take work! But after a while the ebb and flow of what you do becomes simple. It becomes a skill and then an art, and suddenly the dedication is second nature. It’s a part of you and not really work at all.”

This is exactly what my dedicated clients learn. At first taking care of their skin is hard. They have to work at it. It’s a slow process that takes more time than they want to give, but over time it becomes part of their every day routine and suddenly it’s simple and they feel lost without it. Dedication. That’s what I am asking of every client. But I only ask because I am dedicated to perfecting your skin.

While putting the finishing touches on my new space, and preparing all the marketing materials that go along with my new business I have had to sit down and ponder how to express what it is that I do. Most people come to me to fix their skin, but what they may not realize is that Skin Fitness encompasses more than just the correct lotions and potions. Skin Fitness isn’t just about the topical. It’s about the internal and spiritual as well.

Your skin is a mirror that reflects your health on the outside. To look good you have to feel good both inside and outside. While I work to improve your skin I am also working to improve your self esteem, your mood, and your overall health. You can’t have beautiful skin if the rest of you is unhealthy and unhappy. Healthy skin is about total wellness. It encompasses the whole body because your skin encompasses your whole body.

Eastern medicine has long recognized the impact emotions have on the body. Their approach to health is a mind-body-spirit connection. Western medicine has traditionally thought of this as “hocus pocus”, but more and more studies are coming out scientifically proving that the concepts behind this principal is valid.

Anxiety, stress, depression are now all scientifically connected to illness, poor health, and depleted immunity. Studies have shown that depression is linked to poor outcomes from heart and spinal surgery. Fear, anxiety, and depression have been linked to increased post-op pain. It’s no longer strange to hear about a peer reviewed study, published in a well renowned medical journal supporting the benefits of nontraditional, alternative, or holistic practices. And it doesn’t matter whether you believe in the healing power of gem therapy, reiki, or reflexology either. Most studies can support all these claims as helpful in at least one way. They all include touch, and touch is something that we have proven people need.

Our skin is the only organ of the body that really “touches”. It is a sense that we take for granted. A physical magic that we never think about. “When Michelangelo sought to portray God animating Adam, he didn’t paint a bolt of lightning whitening Eden’s sky, he chose an outstretched hand, reaching down from above.” (Total Skin by David Leffell) He chose that because the power of touch resonates within us. Can anything express more emotion than a touch of a loved one when upset, or a hug from a friend after a long separation?

While studying child behavior in college I read a book by an anthropologist named Ashley Montagu called Touching: The Human Significance of the Skin. In it he discusses how all early experiences are passed through the skin, and how without touch we become less social, unhappy, and ill.

Although Montagu’s book came out in the 1970’s, new studies are showing that babies who are touched and cuddled walk and begin to speak sooner. Whereas babies who don’t get enough physical touch tend to suffer more physical and psychological ailments as they grow up. Residents in hospitals and retirement homes live longer and heal faster if they have regular visitors who care enough to touch them.

Skin Fitness is about total wellness and overall health. Mind-body-spirit. I see them as one and treat them as one. Yes I make you look good, but it isn’t just the creams I put on you. It’s the entire experience. It’s the power of my touch, my knowledge and training, the music, the lighting, the massage, the tea …well everything. Each element contributes to the experience. This is what makes what I do successful and what gets my clients the results they want.

It’s weird to think about, but as an esthetician I have to go to an esthetician to get facials. As I tell all my clients, you just can’t give yourself a good facial. You can’t successfully and safely extract on yourself, and you can’t give yourself a proper massage either.

Usually I trade with a fellow esthetician, but now and then I venture out into the world to see what other services and my peers are like. Sometimes I have a wonderful experience and leave to make notes on new techniques used on me that I want to practice and acquire. Other times I leave frustrated that I have to tip someone (hey you always tip a peer!) with such crapy hands and obviously no skill or love for what they do. Unfortunately yesterday was one of those instances…

One of my many very thoughtful and amazing clients (thanks Emily!) won a free facial and massage. She was more than happy to take a free rub down, but she wasn’t going to “let some stranger” touch her face after all the work we’ve put into it. So she gave it to me as a holiday gift. Not only did the compliment make me blush, but the thoughtfulness of handing over the facial to me had me close to tears. What I didn’t realize when I accepted the gift was that I would be left in tears by the esthetician she so cleverly escaped.

It all started out nice. The spa is a fun little joint in Los Feliz. I arrived 15 minutes before my appointment like any new client should. I filled out my paperwork, blithely lying about what I did for a living and writing “designer” as my job title. (I have discovered long ago that you have to lie to get a real treatment.) I was escorted into a beautiful room and told to take off my top and bra and get under the covers on the bed.

The bed was one of the most comfortable I have been on, so much so that when I got off it at the end of the facial I took down the manufacturer info and noted the pillows and adjustments they used. My technician walked in with a bowl of water and started. She asked me all the usual questions then started with the facial.

I remember thinking that her technique was a mix between Burke Williams and Dermalogica. I felt the massage was a little light and noted that although she had been trained on pressure points she didn’t always hit them. Her head massage was annoying, but her cleansing technique was quite good.

Then the torture began and a fairly blah facial turned into a painful, picking, extravaganza. I don’t know what technique this woman used, but she had the extraction skills of Attila the Hun! They were the most painful extractions I have ever had! Now I am used to getting extractions. With acne like mine you grow tolerant. You get used to the lancets and scalpels. The pricks and presses. The pinches and strange contortments of your face. I am not sensitive to any of this anymore, but I swear she was digging nails into my face! As my eyes welled up with tears I told myself to stick it out. To note all the ways this hurt. To put this into my brain as a reminder of what improper extractions feel like, and why I just plain won’t do it.

The real horror came when she told me my skin was very clear. Hmmm, clear huh? So what was all the painful prodding about! She used high frequency on me, slapped on a mask and left me in the room for 10 minutes. 10 minutes of time I used to mark down all the products she was using on me that I wasn’t familiar with. When she came back I was more than ready to escape the spa. I thanked her for her time. Dropped $30 on the bed and nearly ran out the door.

When I got to my car my skin looked okay, and I made a mental note to check on the finishing mask she used. But as the day wore on I could tell I was going to get a major break out. Yes I was getting ready to start my period, but this was a different kind of flare up…one from incorrect extractions – Dammit!

I woke up today with some of the worst acne I’ve had in a long time. Tonight I am working on damage control, but all I keep thinking about is how most people in a situation like this wouldn’t know what to do. And god forbid if they were a newbie! They would never have a facial again!

I guess it doesn’t really matter whether I get a good or bad facial. For me the learning experience is the same on either side. I learn just as much about “what not to do” from facials as “things to do”. In the end I am the first and ultimate guinea pig. I try everything out on myself first, then pass it onto another person to see their response. I just wish more people in my field did the same. I wish I could get that technician (I am no longer calling her an esthetician!) onto my table and show her what a facial should be like. I wish I could give her books and information to help her become a good esthetician. But then I think, the information is out there, if she loved what she did, if she took pride in it, she would already know all this. She would already be trying to improve herself.

Finally, I want to thank every friend, family member, and client who has helped me become the esthetician I am. I want to thank everyone who has trustingly guinea pigged a product, or allowed me to fumble through a new technique I am trying to perfect on them. You are all amazing. Keep the feedback coming because I don’t want to EVER become so lazy and uncaring that I would give someone a facial like the one I just had.

Well my hunt continues for a new location. Twice now I thought I had it, but both haven’t worked out. Although I was sad on both occasions I always think to myself “then it wasn’t meant to be.” But I figured since everyone has been kind enough to keep their eyes peeled for a new location for me, that I would write down what I am looking for. As one of my clients said “Cybil, it’s in my best interest to find your space…that way it’s near me!” So here we go:

1. Something in Toluca Lake/Burbank/North Hollywood area.
2. It doesn’t have to be a shop front or in a “prime” location since I have clients and don’t need walk-ins. I am always happy to have this, but it isn’t as essential as #1.
3. On the smaller side. I like to think “intimate”. Ideally 500-600sqft.
4. Would really like a ground floor place for my disabled clients.

That’s about it. Really it comes down to area. I want to make sure none of my clients have to commute more than 5 or 6 miles to see me.

So everyone keep those phone calls and emails coming. Keep your eyes peeled! I know my perfect space is out there, I just have to find it!